by Randy Lankford
Owner David Guerra at Acapulco ice house
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When it comes to South Texas there are a few constants: humidity, mesquite trees and mercifully, icehouses. Born in San Antonio, a classic icehouse is a cross between a Mexican cantina and a German biergarten, representing both the dominant cultures of the Alamo City. Once as plentiful as the grackles that swirl in the summer heat, the tin-roofed oases have seen their golden age and are now on the decline. Thankfully a few, along with the people who run them, remain. More than a building, more than a business, they represent a time, a spirit, a uniquely San Antonio attitude. Icehouses started out as just that—neighborhood staging areas where enormous blocks of ice were stored and pared down before being delivered to consumers. As time passed, end users were eventually required to pick up their own ice. Icehouse owners were quick to capitalize on this ready-made market by adding staples such as bread and eggs to the shelves. This was the birth of the modern convenience store. Some owners held out, keeping food to a minimum but stocking plenty of beer and sodas. Those true icehouses evolved into makeshift community centers where the locals would gather to play cards or dominos while gossiping and discussing the day’s news over a cold one. Today’s remaining icehouses are much the same, clinging to the traditions that made them hubs of information—the Internet of their generation. Why is it a longneck, sipped in the shade of a live oak, tastes better? What is it about a juke box playing 50-year-old country and western tear-jerkers that makes our troubles seem so trivial? How do blue-collar laborers and suit-wearing professionals share an often hot, noisy space with no conflict more consequential than “hook ’em” vs. “gig ’em?” 80-year-old Doyal Everett taps a cigarette on the bar of the Texas Ice House and contemplates the question. He points at the “Doral” label and chuckles, “They spelled my name wrong.” Bartender Vivian Havlock smiles. She’s heard that one before. Everett runs the tiny open-aired bar on Blanco Road so, at least nominally, he’s the boss. Havlock treats him more like her father. “My son and his business partner actually own the place,” Everett explains. “They both live in Florida. I never see either one of them.” He inserts a well-practiced pause before delivering the punch line. “Thank God.” Havlock nods knowingly as Everett settles into his regular patter. The story is as familiar to her as the beer ads scattered around the walls. Everett’s son bought Texas Ice from the previous owner eight years ago, “lock, stock and barrel” as the old saying goes. “I’d been coming here 30 years,” Everett adds. “I didn’t want just any bar, I wanted this one. I liked that friendly atmosphere. You come in here everyday after work and see the same people doing the same things. You get to know everyone. It’s the Texas version of Cheers where everyone knows your name.” The come-as-you-are, be-who-you-are atmosphere of icehouses is a big draw, according to Havlock. “It’s a small town, country feel. Nobody’s better than anybody else. Everybody’s equal. You go to some fancy nightclub where the music’s pounding and you can’t hear what anyone’s saying, there’s no shared experience. You might go in the door with someone you know but once you’re inside, you’re pretty much alone.”
While the concept of icehouses is decades old, not all the buildings are. La Tuna, on Probandt Street along the edge of the King William district, is practically an infant by icehouse standards, celebrating its 18th anniversary this spring. “If my understanding is correct,” says co-owner Michael Berrier, “there was a restaurant on our site a long time ago. I think it was also a dress shop at one time.” La Tuna’s patio stands where the dress shop was and is the real destination for many of the participants in the monthly First Friday Art Walk through the tony Southtown art district. That infusion of artists and art patrons adds another element to the usual mix of icehouse customers. “The interesting thing about icehouses, in my judgment,” adds Berrier, “is that they’re working-man places. And that’s our principal clientele. But, having said that, San Antonio is a small town so everybody goes to icehouses, whether you’re a working man or a lawyer or whatever. So we have quite a mixed crowd, which delights me no end.” The idea to open a classic south Texas bar came to Berrier while he was sitting in another one. “I was familiar with The Acapulco, a little icehouse on South Alamo, because it was a block from my house. I’d had a few beers there and my conclusion was that it can’t be that hard to run an icehouse and the beer would be cheaper, so that was the genesis of the whole thing.” Berrier is determined to keep to icehouse tradition, even if it means turning a blind eye to technology. “We’re probably not going to be adding a wi-fi hotspot. We have a TV but it’s in the backroom and we don’t pipe music outside so when people come in they can just sit back, feel the breeze and talk to each other. A lot of bars just have six or seven televisions going and everyone’s working on their computers at the same time. It’s just nice to go to a place that feels like a place that places have always felt like.” One of the quirks about La Tuna, aside from the name—it’s not named after a fish, but the fruit of another Texas icon, the prickly pear—is the food service. La Tuna Grill, owned and operated independently, stands next to La Tuna Icehouse, an odd arrangement since most icehouses have little more than vending machine snacks to munch on. But there are no hard and fast rules. An icehouse is more about style than structure. If it feels like an icehouse, then it’s an icehouse. Texas Pride Barbecue in Adkins is an example. It’s two things most icehouses aren’t: big and known as much for its food as its beer. At 55, owner Tony Talanco has been in the family business most of his life. “My family’s been doing this since the ’20s. My grandfather started out with a little 30 by 40 shed on the Westside of San Antonio. People would come in for a beer or soda and he had barbecue too.” Not only did Talanco’s business have to survive societal changes, it had to change locations three times in its 90 years. “The state moved my grandfather twice between the ’20s and the ’60s. We had a place on the Southside for a while and then we moved here in 1995.” With 17,000 square feet of pavilions, Texas Pride dwarfs most icehouses, but it’s not about size. As Talanco explains, it’s about tradition. “My grandfather passed it down to my dad and he passed it down to me. I’ve been running the place for about 15 years now but I’ve been working here since I was a kid. “I was here all the time growing up. I couldn’t wait to get here after school. We had a lot of military people so there were people from all over the country with different accents and different interests and different stories. We had a lot of characters here. It was like Disneyland to me.” Characters and constancy are what set icehouses apart from other watering holes. There are plenty of places around town to get a beer, or something even more substantial, but only a few where the customers are as much of a draw as what’s on tap. And while most people probably wouldn’t describe a dusty, hot beer joint as something out of Disneyland, there’s a certain San Antonio magic to sipping an ice cold beer in the shade of a 200-year-old live oak while humming along to a twangy tune about trucks and dogs. |
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