Hofbrau

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What's In a Name? Hofbrau offers taste of Texas

Reviewed by Jennifer Chiesa

If the words “chicken fried” make your heart leap with joy, then Quarry Hofbräu is your kind of place. Nestled in between a strip of Quarry Market stores and Stonewerks restaurant, Beaux Roby’s two-month old indoor-outdoor hangout serves the homey classic in all its gravy-covered glory, plus lots of other Texas faves. You’ll find a creamy, bacon-y melt-in-your-mouth mac and cheese, and chicken breast strips topped with jalapeño and wrapped in bacon, slathered in BBQ sauce and served with ranch dressing. But what you won’t find is German food. The name may be German, but this is all about Texas, baby—generous portions, ice-cold beer, friendly service, and lots and lots of wet naps.

Quarry Hofbrau

7310 Jones Maltsberger

(210) 290-8066

www.quarryhofbrau.com

Hours:

Open Sun. – Tues., 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Weds. – Sat., 11 a.m. to 2 a.m.

Price Range:

Though you can get your finger-lickin’-good meal “chicken fried,” this is no KFC—entrées hover in the $15.00 range, from a low of $12.99 for a smoked chicken and sausage pasta, right up to $26.99 for an 8 oz. filet mignon with two sides. Burgers and sandwiches come in around $10.00, and appetizers will set you back about $9.00. Specialty martinis, margaritas and the like run around $7.00.

Pros:

Down-home comfort food— and lots of it—is competently prepared and served up with enthusiasm at Beaux Roby’s two-month old Quarry establishment. The pleasant patio “beer garden” is the perfect oasis after a day of shopping, golfing—or anything, really—and if you’re in need of a little refreshment, the Dos-A-Rita frozen marg served in a fishbowl-sized glass with a bottle of upside down Dos Equis Amber plopped in the middle is a fun way to cool off.

Cons:

Owner Roby has said that he didn’t give the naming of his restaurant much thought, and that’s unfortunate—on the night we visited, the closest thing to something German was the guy wearing white socks and sandals on the patio. (OK…there is sauerkraut on the Rueben and solid German beer choices like Warsteiner Dunkel.) Hopefully, confusion over what to expect on the menu won’t hamstring an otherwise solid concept.

The building itself dates from the 1920s, and some of the original brick has been exposed, lending an authentic rustic feel just right for the Alamo City. And nothing screams Texas quite like Hofbräu’s collection of stuffed, mounted wildlife—animals from bobcats to owls and all manner of hoofed creatures ring the large dining area. Sturdy wooden furniture and wagon-wheel chandeliers reinforce the Hill Country ranch house vibe. The bar, with 26 beers on tap and as many in bottles, juts out like a peninsula into the space, and the pleasant “beer garden” on the patio adds seating and a choice of dining al fresco under oaks and ceiling fans, or just enjoying the Americana-leaning bands that play in the evening Thursday thru Saturday.

You know you’re in for something interesting when you ask the waitress what to expect with the Hofbräu Hot Wings ($14.99) and she starts to describe them by saying, “Well, have you ever seen the Flintstones?” We, of course, immediately ordered it. The name is a bit tongue-in-cheek, as the “wings” are actually three nice-sized (though not quite prehistoric) pork shanks slathered in a thick, tangy BBQ sauce. The pork was so tender it fell off the bone with only the slightest urging of a fork, and it was accompanied by a heap of just crispy enough wedge fries.

The Chicken Fried Ribeye ($13.99) is a fabulously messy affair, arriving golden-fried, swimming in a pepper jack gravy and topped with two handfuls of fried onions and jalapeño strips. The dish got high marks from my husband, an aficionado of things fried, who also sang the praises of the grilled honey chipotle corn on the cob that accompanied it. A charbroiled salmon was more ho-hum and on the dry side—using the excellent housemade pecan vinaigrette dressing (served with a house salad) as a dipping sauce helped. Though we visited on the wrong day to sample them, Rocky Mountain oysters (think turf, not surf here, folks) are on the menu on Wednesdays.

If you want to stop by for a drink rather than a meal, skip the syrupy prickly pear margarita and go right for a “Dirty Texan,” a martini flavored with jalapeno-stuffed olives and their juice, with a terrific kick that everyone at our table loved. It’s really the perfect drink for a place that’s more Vaya con Dios (as a sign at the exit reads) than auf Wiedersehen.