Raising the Bar at Bohanan's

Reviewed by Jennifer Chiesa

If you haven’t visited Bohanan’s in a while—say, since before last Thanksgiving—then you’re in for a surprise. For starters, you can now enter directly from Houston Street—no more looking up forlornly at the Bohanan’s logo on the second floor windows and wondering how in the heck to get up there. When Zenbar Ultra Lounge, the former resident of the lower half of the building, failed to renew its lease, Mark Bohanan finally had the opportunity to snap up the space he’d coveted for years. This gave way to the new entrance, and more importantly, allowed Bohanan to create a bar more in keeping with the feel of the venerable steakhouse. And he’s done that in clubby, comfortable spades.

When Mark Bohanan first acquired the upstairs dining room space, he made the decision to honor the building’s history by keeping the pine floors. And this respect for the past is evident in the new bar space as well. Not only in the Old World vibe of the furnishings—antique etched-glass partitions, French chandeliers, leather wingback armchairs, a library stocked with classic books—but in the pre-Prohibition era cocktail menu, too. New York “cocktail consultant” Sasha Petraske was hired to train the bar staff on all aspects of the speakeasy concept—from understanding how ice melts (larger, thicker pieces are better, as they melt more slowly) to the wonders of egg whites (for texture). The result of Bohanan’s careful attention to detail is a place that makes you feel cooler just for being there—where drinks like the Ivy Gimlet (vodka, lime juice, sugar and bitters) and Morning Glory Fizz (absinthe-rinsed glass with scotch, lemon juice, sugar, egg whites and club soda) rule. And if you’re looking for great service, look no further. On the night I visited, I couldn’t decide which cocktail to try, so the bartender asked me my preferences and made something sublime up on the spot.

It would have been a job well-done had Bohanan stopped at simply creating an old-school cocktail bar, but his vision extended beyond that. He wanted to offer tourists and townies alike a place to retreat to when the afternoon sun begins its scorching assault, a place where coat and tie clad waiters cater to every whim. And a place where the food is special without bordering on pretentious—it is, after all, lunch. Take the Kurobuta BLT ($10.95). Kurobuta—the Kobe beef of pork—makes for bacon so good you won’t begrudge the extra hour on the treadmill it’s going to take just to break even. Heirloom tomatoes and hydroponic romaine complete the pleasant upscaling of the diner staple. A Spicy Shrimp Gazpacho ($8.95)—think shrimp cocktail rather than soup— served on a shallow rectangular plate was a hit. The three plump, juicy shrimp came bathed in a tomato puree with little chunks of carrots and celery and just the right amount of fresh avocado on top. A Grilled Gouda & Heirloom Tomato sandwich ($7.95) served with big leaves of fresh basil on house-baked bread was too generous to finish in one sitting—which is no complaint. Prime rib served with house slaw was a big seller, and from the moans of enjoyment coming from the table next to ours, also worth ordering.

My husband and I whiled away two pleasant hours at Bohanan’s Bar, drinking wine from a glass that actually makes a grown-man’s hand look doll-sized (with an equally oversized pour, which made the $13 price tag palatable) and enjoying the unhurried pace of the meal. With coffee finished and a delicious espresso-laden crème brulée now nothing but two sticky spoons and a memory, we were actually hesitant to leave. My only thought—when does happy hour start?