The Barn Door

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The More Things Change, Barn Door Stays the Same

Reviewed by Jennifer Chiesa

The word “old-fashioned” is rarely used as a compliment in the restaurant biz these days—but I can’t think of a better one to nail on the Barn Door. The little red restaurant that got its start at the edge of town as a Frazer’s BBQ, before Bill Tassos and David Strauss decided it was destined for steakhouse status, has been serving up the same straightforward fare since 1953. In fact, framed menus hanging near the door show the only major change since the fifties is the price—you can still get the lady’s filet mignon, but not for the $1.50 it cost back then.

Barn Door Restaurant and Meat Market
8400 North New Braunfels Ave.
(210) 824-0116
www.barndoorrestaurant.com

Hours: Open for lunch Mon. – Fri. 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Dinner is served Mon. – Thurs. from 5 p.m. – 10 p.m., Fri. and Sat. 5 p.m. – 10:30 p.m. and Sun. 4 p.m. – 9 p.m.

Price Range: It may be “homey,” but it’s not cheap—dinner for three ran over $100 with tax and tip. Think steakhouse prices, but with sides included. Steaks start at $18 for a 6 oz. “lady’s” filet and run all the way up to the two-cuts-in-one powerhouse porterhouse (it’s a sirloin strip and a tenderloin for those who just can’t decide) for $37. Seafood dishes average $18. Reasonably priced wine is available.

Pros: The rambling “barn” that Bill Tassos and David Strauss opened in 1953 should be required eating for every San Antonian worth their sea salt. House-cut steaks served straight from the original charcoal grill are so tender and juicy they render both steak knife and the crusty bottle of A-1 unnecessary. But it’s what’s on the walls—the old black and whites of local landmarks and prized stock show steers and the people who helped build this city—that give the place its special flavor.

Cons: Trends come and go, but the Barn Door remains mostly the same—right down to the plastic checkered tablecloths and ham bags hanging from the ceiling. Don’t expect soft lighting, sophisticated décor or a fancy bar with martinis of the moment.

It’s a place where the walls really do talk. There are the pictures of sports stars like San Antonio-raised 49er Bruce Collie, who often drove a bus with his then-10 kids jammed inside to eat at Barn Door. Pictures of Sonny Cochran—who worked as a busboy at the age of 16 and still plays host at age 73 on weekends when he’s in town—manning the grill or standing in front of the place with his restored 1949 Ford. The irresistible shots of the Struasses and Tassoses leaning on Balanced Rock in Arches National Park, and the restaurant when it was surrounded by nothing but dirt roads and trees. There’s the room filled with framed newspaper front pages like the one from May 7, 1945, announcing Germany’s unconditional surrender. And there are the samples of barbed wire and horse collars and the hundreds of losing betting stubs stuck above the bar from family-run Retama Park. So many mementos in one place, in fact, that a customer once exclaimed, “It’s just like Cracker Barrel, only real.”

Then there are the stories. About the owner of a nearby ranch throwing out some old barn lumber and telling Bill Tassos he could use it if he called the new place “Barn Door.” The one about waitress “Miss Laura,” who quit rather than put down her order pad and learn the new computer system. Or Steve Strauss’ kids asking diners to guess the number of hams hanging from the ceiling to win a free dinner. “There aren’t any,” they would yell gleefully when the customer guessed 100, or 50 or 37. “They’re only empty bags.” And the sentimental stories from diners themselves—about anniversary dinners and family get-togethers and promotions celebrated in the restaurant through the years.

But a place can’t stay open for 57 years on nostalgia alone, and Barn Door persists where others have fallen by the wayside because it offers what people want—good steaks done right with a side of southern hospitality. The restaurant hand cuts their own meat—they buy the primals (basically everything but the moo) and Victor cuts all of the different steaks in the butcher shop, right off the entrance. Want an extra ounce on your filet, just ask. Almost everything is made on-site from scratch, like the buttery yeast rolls served with every meal, and the flaky crust of the fruit pies beckoning in their display case. Sonny’s Combo ($27.99), a bacon-wrapped filet paired with charcoal broiled shrimp is the kind of entrée you could eat forever and never get tired of. And with a dress code from “Sea World to symphony,” according to manager Jean Breda, you’ll always be properly attired to stop in and enjoy it.